I have to admit, I am a clam chowder snob, and a relative purist. I hope you will not hold it against me. I am, after all, from New England. Ever the optimist, I am prone to try it in restaurants from coast to coast. Especially when they tell me it is good. But often times, I am left wanting and occasionally I am left offended. It may be due to the viscosity of the chowder (I had some in Malibu that an Australian told me was amazing and it was the consistency of those canned soups BEFORE you add the water. I should have considered the source). Sometimes it's a result of the random ingredients that the chef thought would improve on a classic. Like the time that I found water chestnuts in my "authentic" New England clam chowder. Needless to say, I sent it back. And to all of you who call that red soup from the Big Apple a chowder, I say, "I'm sorry".

Here's a recipe that I have made three times, and it hasn't failed me yet. It's the perfect compliment to a warm fire and a fresh baguette (my fellow Yankees would serve it with oyster crackers. I guess that's where we part company).

New England Clam Chowder

2 quarts canned clams with juice
1 1/2 quarts water or fish stock, approx.
1 1/4 pounds potato, small dice
8 ounces salt pork or bacon, small dice
1 pound onion, small dice
8 ounces celery, small dice
4 ounces flour
1 quart milk
8 ounces heavy cream
salt and pepper, to taste
Tabasco sauce, to taste
Worcestershire sauce, to taste
fresh thyme, to taste


1. Drain the clams, reserving both the clams and their liquid. Add enough water or stock so that the total liquid equals 2 quarts.

2. Simmer the potatoes in the clam liquid until nearly cooked through (test them with a fork). Strain and reserve the potatoes and the liquid.

3. Render (saute) the salt pork on low, extracting the liquid fat, without browning it. Add the onions and celery and sweat (make it turn translucent and give up its liquid) until tender.

4. Add the flour and cook to make a blond roux.

5. Add the clam liquid to the roux, whisking away any lumps.

6. Simmer for 30 minutes.

7. Bring the milk and cream to a boil and add to the soup.

8. Add the clams and potatoes, and season to taste with salt, pepper, Tabasco, Worcestershire and thyme.

9. Garnish each serving with fresh herbs.

Yield: 3 quarts